Thanks to a warm welcome from the neighborhood and the initial success of the pop-up, Threes Brewing is extending its stay in Greenpoint! The outpost will continue to occupy the former Cassette space at 113 Franklin Street (corner of Kent St.) at least through the summer.
Though I’d been hearing great things about the Gowanus brewery for a while before my first visit, it was a Luluc concert at Tiny Montgomery—the brewery’s versatile private dining room that doubles as an intimate concert venue—that inspired my first trip to the original Threes location. With a coffee shop by Ninth Street Espresso conducive to tackling some work before the show, my sense of the place was that it would lend itself nicely to spending the day and then enjoying food by one of the pop-ups featured at the time (its food is now exclusively by The Meat Hook) and beers with friends who joined for the show.
Now much of what I loved about that welcoming, experience-focused, “come hang” vibe is just down the block from me. Known for its frequent and interesting programming, Threes will bring more of the same to Threes @ Franklin + Kent with live music and other events starting in May. In the meantime, there will be DJs a few nights per week, as well as a lineup of other breweries coming by each Wednesday (4/19 Industrial Arts; 4/26 KCBC; 5/3 Other Half; 5/10 LIC Beer Project; 5/17 Barrier Brewing; 5/24 Transmitter).
For food at the outpost, Threes has joined forces with Brooklyn-based Purslane with partners Amanda Braddock and Chef Arden Lewis at the helm to provide an approachable menu intended to complement the layers of flavor provided by Threes brews. Contributing to the casual atmosphere, table dining is “seat yourself” with all food and drinks ordered at the bar. Pals Lewis, Braddock and Justin Israelson of Threes envision Franklin + Kent as a place where you can come and enjoy a beer (there is also a full bar and wine), grab a bite, have another beer, and eat some more. With the inviting windowed façade and sidewalk seating opening up with the good weather, this will indeed be an alluring and convivial spot to spend those treasured, long-awaited Greenpoint spring and summer days.
The food is inspired by international comfort food. It is designed with the global street food scene in mind. As Chef Lewis says of the fried Brussels sprouts (chili, black vinegar, cilantro, sesame seeds, crispy rice noodles, $9), they’re not something he has seen as street food but are reminiscent of travels in Asia and what he could see as street food.
I can see myself craving this dish. Those Brussels sing. The particular chili gives a rounding heat – a flavorful warmth that is balanced, not overpowering as heat can often be. Maintaining the round and balanced flavor is the use of black and white sesame. Overall, the dish is uniformly (and addictingly) imbued with sweet, salty, tangy and hot flavors.
Purslane’s aim is to create a new but familiar dining experience. Take the burger (fontina, caramelized onions, brioche, $14) and potatoes (smashed and fried butterball potatoes with garlic and rosemary, $9). The burger is so incredibly flavorful, I was confused when asked if I wanted condiments. The cloves of garlic mingled in with the potatoes are supple like the potatoes themselves, creating a variance of flavor within a seamless texture. While we’re talking about garlic, good lord the flavor of the garlic confit and two days’ preparation for the meat in the porchetta tacos (“green magic,” fennel, oregano, cilantro, cotija cheese, $12 for 3 tacos)! And how about a few of my favorite things all between two slices of bread? Enter the avocado sandwich with cotija cheese and arugula, plus a basil aioli that portends summer ($12). The grilled cheese ($10)? Taleggio, fried rosemary, and lavender honey – oh my!
Purslane’s commitment to sustainability and ethically, locally sourced food is evident. Maximizing food use and preventing waste (something Chef Lewis notes is particularly important in catering, where Purslane has its origins) is the impetus for the intensely flavorful arugula oil that is made from leftovers of the greens. The disposable plates and utensils are all made of the highest grade biodegradable materials. The plant-focused menu utilizes local and seasonal ingredients from nearby farms, especially in the spring and summer, and local vendors such as John’s Market, Sullivan Street Bakery, and Paisano’s Butcher Shop.
Oh, and to drink? Even with all the ancillary perks of the outpost, I would be remiss not to extol the main event, the beer. Ever the fan of hops, I enjoyed the Burial Neither Way (hoppy lager, 16 oz. can $7/4 pack to go $14) and You People (IPA with Oats, on draft, 20 oz., $9), and I look forward to trying more of the rotating selection.
Welcome to the neighborhood, Threes @ Franklin + Kent! We are delighted to have you here and are excited to see what’s yet to come.
Threes @ Franklin + Kent is located at 113 Franklin Street. They are open Wednesday & Thursday, 5pm – 12am (food until 11p); Friday, 5pm – 2am (food until midnight); Saturday, 2pm – 2am (food until midnight); and Sunday, 2pm – 12am (food until 11p).