At the beginning of the summer, Greenpoint received its very own location of Manhattan’s French bakery & café du jour, Maman (80 Kent Street). It has quickly become a great place to pick up some pastries or a light sandwich, or possibly an ice cream sandwich when it was hot out. What has been missing is the heartier brunch fare found at their other locations. Similar to their current offerings, Maman’s brunch has something for everyone; there is healthy fare alongside the decidedly decadent with a few exclusive items for each location. And that part of the equation begins tomorrow when our Maman begins offering brunch in their beautiful upstairs space! Like the downstairs, the second level is all very Provençal-chic with rustic light-painted wood, hanging plants, and a fake fireplace opposite a floral black-and-white wall.
Michelin-starred chef Armand Arnal, restaurateur Benjamin Sormonte, and baker/designer Elisa Marshall helm Maman, with the idea of offering the comfort foods your mom and grandmother make you, hence their buttery pastries, rich cakes, and some of the best cookies in the city. And anyone looking for comfort won’t be disappointed by their brunch menu. There are the lighter breakfast dishes including a plate of assorted superb viennoiserie, plus tartines, eggs with toast, a Greek yogurt parfait, and caramelized grapefruit.
The entrees are where Chef Armand’s talent and Maman’s creativity comes through. Instead of the typical avocado toast we’ve all been eating, they serve it deconstructed with the avocado mashed in its own skin, salsa in another, and pepitas for topping. Just like in Tulum.
Hashbrowns are given a spin in a waffle iron and form the base for smoked salmon, sliced avocado, and cucumbers. There’s also luscious lasagna Bolognese made with layers of crêpes, and on-trend zucchini spaghetti with pesto and corn nuts.
But the real hangover cure comes in the form of truffle croque maman with a substantial amount of truffle béchamel sauce and Comté cheese baked on top. Just make sure to get it topped with the perfect fried egg. You can get quinoa salads with either roasted cauliflower, cabbage, and dates; or with roasted carrots, red grapes, and baby kale. Chicken, meanwhile, can come in Caesar salad form or as a club sandwich.
And don’t forget dessert. It’s not overlooked here like it is at most brunch spots. There will be beautiful matcha waffles with poached pear and ricotta, and a brioche “perdu” which also comes with fluffy dollops of ricotta. Either one is delicious and the perfect way to finish breakfast-lunch.
Maman is located at 80 Kent Street (at Franklin Street). They are open Monday – Friday, 7am to 6pm; Saturday and Sunday, 8am to 6pm. Brunch will be on Saturday and Sunday, 9am to 4pm.