Chez Ma Tante (90 Calyer St.) has served unfussy French-ish fare since 2017. Owners Aidan O’Neal and Jake Leiber named their neighborhood bistro after a French euphemism that refers to leisure time that is unaccounted for and a Montreal hot dog shack of the same name.

The American, European, and French-Canadian-inspired dishes from the restaurant’s Executive Chef Oscar Pazare eaten in an understated dining room meant to evoke a friend’s dinner party, according…

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