Fellow Greenpointer, Tien Chang, has opened Sui Ren in Williamsburg. Though the menu is Japanese, don’t expect Rainbow and California rolls. Instead anticipate divergent concoctions like Kinko, a juicy King Oyster Mushroom, skewered and grilled to succulent perfection or Kani Chahan, a mound of fried rice with a soft shell crab perched on top. I generally have an aversion to entire animals on my plate, but this cooked crab practically begged me to eat it. Smoky meat that was flawlessly tender and seasoned, burst through its crispy outer shell upon my first bite.

Along with Sui Ren’s lenghty menu that included both hot and cold items, skewers, salads and ramens, there was an offering of several specials. We opted for the grilled squid drizzled in squid liver sauce – an organ I never attributed to that particular species before this dining experience. Expecting the chewy resistance that squid normally puts up, I was surprised when the texture presented itself as silky and delicate.

Yes, the sushi love boat for two was absent, but not missed. Among our other dishes were a tomato and avocado salad bathed in a soy wasabi dressing and a dense stack of crepes layered in heavy cream topped with fresh berries for dessert. The menu is a la carte with smaller dishes at a very reasonable prices. Sui Ren’s most expensive plate will set you back a whopping $12.

We dined in the backyard that is situated around a tree with pretty lavender flowers that fell sporadically around us as we ate. The back seemed popular with the other diners (of which there were many) as it was a nice evening and the alternative was the restaurant’s inside, which is spacious, yet a little dark.

Catching up with Chang, who also goes by the first name Morgan, it was obvious the new restaurateur feels as if he has lucked out, not only with the space (located conveniently at n.4th and Roebling) but also with the steady stream of customers since Sui Ren’s June 10th opening. Though his project is well underway and receiving great reviews – it is still a work in progress. Planned for the backyard is a Yakai stall which will serve grilled Taiwanese street food. With this addition, Chang hopes to bring in customers looking alternatively for a to-go snack rather than a sit down dinner.

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Worth noting is the fact that the Japanese eatery finally got its much coveted liquor license last week and is now serving sake and beer. Chang plans on having a grand opening for his place sometime in August, but I would recommend getting there before then to see what I’m talking about.

Sui Ren
302 Metropolitan Ave
between Driggs Ave & Roebling St
(718) 218-7878

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